Caravaggio – Devil and Genius – Rome and Naples - Upcoming Tours for Generation X - Art History Abroad - Art History Abroad

Rome 10th - 13th May and Naples extension 13th - 15th May 2012

Rarely do we have the chance to study one artist, to truly delve into their life, mind and works.  What artist more intricate, fascinatingly dark, and intensely moving than Caravaggio.  His genius is apparent in all his work; the intense beauty, the unflinching realism and the dramatic lighting.  The devil in him was also omnipresent; reams of court script, assault, libel and murder.  Yet was it this turbulent temper that fuelled the passion so evident in his painting?

We will study all that is behind Caravaggio; his childhood, his patrons, the Church, politics and life at the turn of the sixteenth century.  We will look at how his radical painting technique and composition thrust their way into the Roman art scene and how his influence outlived his turbulent reputation.  We will study his contemporaries and followers including Rubens, the Caracci brothers, Artemisia Gentilesschi and Bernini. 

Our tutors are also well versed in the nightlife Rome and Naples have to offer; from concerts and theatre to bars and clubs we are there to advise whatever the mood.

The Flagellation by Caravaggio

Itinerary

Thursday 10th May

We will catch a morning flight to Rome with private transport to the Hotel Adriano.  After a light lunch we will have time to wander the atmospheric streets surrounding the Pantheon and set the scene of Rome at the turn of the century.  The discussion can continue over an aperitivo before supper at the Trattoria del Orso, which serves possibly the best antipasti in Italy.

Friday 11th May

We will broach the subject of Caravaggio at the Capitoline Museum in front his early work The Fortune Teller and his quite remarkable painting of St John the Baptist.  Continuing on to the excellent collection at the Galleria Doria Pamphilij, we will concentrate on Caravaggio's Penitent Mary Magdalene and Flight into Egypt whilst also discussing the best of his contemporaries and followers in the gallery.  After lunch at our favourite haunt, Angoletto's, with possibly the best antipasti in Western Europe, we will visit the Palazzo Barbarini which houses the dramatic Judith beheading Holofernes, Narcissus and St Francis in Prayer all by Caravaggio.  The incredible ceiling frescoes by Pietro da Cortona are also worthy of consideration.  Supper at a local and lively trattoria.

Saturday 12th May

We will spend the morning on a church crawl starting with perhaps Caravaggio's most beautiful work, the Madonna of Loreto in Sant' Agostino followed by San Luigi dei Francesi, where Caravaggio painted the breathtaking cycle of St Mathew.  Our last church is that of Santa Maria del Popolo with the dramatic paintings of St Peter and St Paul.  We will have a delicious lunch nearby before spending the afternoon at the Galleria Borghese where we can indulge ourselves fully in the delights of Caravaggio, Bernini and other masters.  In the evening we will dine on the best and largest pizzas Rome has to offer.

Sunday 13th May

You may choose between a leisurely morning at your own pace or join us in the leafy quarter of Trastevere to visit the Palazzo Corsini and Caravaggio's St. John the Baptist.  We can lunch nearby at the Osteria del Moro and join Caravaggio in throwing artichokes at the waiters.  Those returning home will set off for the airport whereas those remaining will head for the station to catch a train to Naples. After settling into our hotel we will delve into the streets of Naples, exploring the darker side of Caravaggio's life. 

Monday 14th May

The morning will be spent discussing the collection of works at the Capodimonte Museum.  The gallery boasts not only the Flagellation by Caravaggio but also excellent works by the Caracci, Luca Giordano and Guido Reni.  After a great lunch we will visit the church of Pio Monte della Misericordia which is home to the Seven Acts of Mercy.  For supper we will venture into the heart of Naples to Da Dora, where if we are lucky Dora will break into song after diner.

Tuesday 15th May

We will start the day off with  a private view of the passionate painting of the Martyrdom of St Ursula at the Galleria di Palazzo Zevallos Stigliano.  We can then have lunch in the Borgo Marinaro, overlooking the ancient port of Naples in the shadow of Vesuvius and under the towering Castel dell'Ovo.  Private transport will take us to the airport for our flight home.

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