Itinerary – Rome and Naples - Caravaggio – Devil and Genius – Rome and Naples - Art History Abroad - Art History Abroad

Thursday

We will catch a morning flight to Rome with private transport to the Hotel Adriano.  After a light lunch we will have time to wander the atmospheric streets surrounding the Pantheon and set the scene of Rome at the turn of the century.  The discussion can continue over an aperitivo before supper at the Trattoria del Orso, which serves possibly the best antipasti in Italy.

Friday

We will broach the subject of Caravaggio at the Capitoline Museum in front his early work The Fortune Teller and his quite remarkable painting of St John the Baptist.  Continuing on to the excellent collection at the Galleria Doria Pamphilij, we will concentrate on Caravaggio's Penitent Mary Magdalene and Flight into Egypt whilst also discussing the best of his contemporaries and followers in the gallery.  After lunch at our favourite haunt, Angoletto's, with possibly the best antipasti in Western Europe, we will visit the Palazzo Barbarini which houses the dramatic Judith beheading Holofernes, Narcissus and St Francis in Prayer all by Caravaggio.  The incredible ceiling frescoes by Pietro da Cortona are also worthy of consideration.  Supper at a local and lively trattoria.

Saturday

We will spend the morning on a church crawl starting with perhaps Caravaggio's most beautiful work, the Madonna of Loreto in Sant' Agostino followed by San Luigi dei Francesi, where Caravaggio painted the breathtaking cycle of St Mathew.  Our last church is that of Santa Maria del Popolo with the dramatic paintings of St Peter and St Paul.  We will have a delicious lunch nearby before spending the afternoon at the Galleria Borghese where we can indulge ourselves fully in the delights of Caravaggio, Bernini and other masters.  In the evening we will dine on the best and largest pizzas Rome has to offer.

Sunday

You may choose between a leisurely morning at your own pace or join us in the leafy quarter of Trastevere to visit the Palazzo Corsini and Caravaggio's St. John the Baptist.  We can lunch nearby at the Osteria del Moro and join Caravaggio in throwing artichokes at the waiters.  Those returning home will set off for the airport whereas those remaining will head for the station to catch a train to Naples. After settling into our hotel we will delve into the streets of Naples, exploring the darker side of Caravaggio's life. 

Monday

The morning will be spent discussing the collection of works at the Capodimonte Museum.  The gallery boasts not only the Flagellation by Caravaggio but also excellent works by the Caracci, Luca Giordano and Guido Reni.  After a great lunch we will visit the church of Pio Monte della Misericordia which is home to the Seven Acts of Mercy.  For supper we will venture into the heart of Naples to Da Dora, where if we are lucky Dora will break into song after diner.

Tuesday

We will start the day off with  a private view of the passionate painting of the Martyrdom of St Ursula at the Galleria di Palazzo Zevallos Stigliano.  We can then have lunch in the Borgo Marinaro, overlooking the ancient port of Naples in the shadow of Vesuvius and under the towering Castel dell'Ovo.  Private transport will take us to the airport for our flight home.

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