Art and Culture of Romania
13th – 20th June 2026
Join us as we return to a country rich in stories, culture and nature. Romanian history and consequently the architecture and art, was dictated by its vulnerable position on the edge of invading powers. Over centuries the way of life has been shaped by intruders and settlers, from ancient Romans and Greeks to Saxons and Ottoman Turks. The result is a colourful and diverse society, all set within an outstanding and unspoilt landscape.
We hope to start our new trip in Maramures to see the wooden churches and the brightly coloured ‘Merry Cemetry’. We then plan to move on to Bucovina to see the painted monasteries. We will cross the Carpathians into the former Principality of Transylvania, to see several of the many Saxon villages and churches, we will include new ones for those who wish to join us for a second trip. We then plan to drive on to Bucharest, stopping at places of interest en route. We will fly home from the capital.
Unlike our previous two trips to Romania, a high level of fitness is not required. There will be optional hikes up into the mountains to see the wildflower meadows and I hope that we can arrive close to one of these meadows on our minibus.
During the trip we will pass through dramatic mountain landscapes, brightly coloured flower meadows, sparkling lakes and thick forests. We will stop in pretty villages; window sills bursting with flowers and working horses still in the fields. We will stay in lodges, eat delicious homecooked meals, picnic in wildflower meadows and see local craftspeople at work.
The wild flora of Transylvania is famed for its pristine meadows that adorn this hilly landscape. The flora is a truly wild mix of Western and Central European, Mediterranean, steppe and mountain species. These are wildflower meadows like little elsewhere, they are rich both diversity and scope and maintained due to the continuation of traditional agricultural practise and patterns of rural life. There are over 1200 flowering species found in this area, including numerous orchids, a huge diversity of grass and parasitic plants associated with them, wild sages, mints relatives, brooms, 30 or more clover species, all of which make for fantastically good hay for the farm animals, but also incredible wild honey. These grasslands represent a lineage of traditionally managed ecosystems that date back to the Saxon period. There are also incredible wet meadow habitats found in the valley basins that are particularly rich in flora. Where such diversity in flowers appear, so do the rest of wildlife. The wildflowers are food and habitat to many insects, from butterflies to bees and many more. Where the insects come so do the birds and these areas are home to such wonders as the lesser-spotted eagle and the iconic Corncrake.
Itinerary
Saturday 13th June
Our flight will land in the early afternoon. We will begin our journey to Botiza village, stopping in Gherla for our first taste of Romanian cooking. We will continue to Rogoz, where we will visit their wooden church – one of eight UNESCO listed buildings, it is a 15th century architectural wonder, built entirely without the help of nails. Inside, the walls are elaborately painted with Biblical scenes, including the Creation and the Last Judgement. We will finish the day at our pensiunea nestled in the verdant hills of Maramureș , where there will be time for rest before supper.
Sunday 14th June
In the morning, we will visit the wooden churches of Ieud and Rozavlea, each with their own lavishly painted interior. We will continue to Glod, where you can choose one of two options – either join Alys and Doru on a hike (1.25 miles, c. 1 hour) across the foothills of the Maramureș mountains to picturesque Poienile Izei, or accompany Charlie in the minibus, where you will have time to explore the village together.
After a well-earned lunch in the village, we will visit the wooden church, unique in its particularly gruesome depictions of hell, with a slew of tailored punishments to fit each sin. Once again, you can choose between a hike (1.25 miles, c.1hr) to the Botiza Monastery. Despite being built in 1991, it is sympathetic to the style of the wooden churches. Alternatively, you can travel there directly for a longer visit. We will then return to our pensiunea for another delicious supper.
Monday 15th June
We will spend the morning on a wooden church crawl, ending up at Mara. Lunch will be in the traditional riverside Pastravaria Alex, steeped in Romanian culture and surrounded by beautiful views.
We will then visit the Maramureș Village Museum in Vadul Izei, where we will explore a reconstructed village of folk architecture. This will be followed by a visit to the Merry Cemetery, known for its vibrantly painted wooden headstones and light-hearted epitaphs. Driving on to Sighet, we will visit the Sighet Memorial, a museum in the former political prison of the communist regime. The cells have been converted into exhibitions, covering collectivization, deportations, and forced labour camps. We will end the day at the lovely Casa Iurca Hotel, where we will have classic Romanian fare for supper.
Tuesday 16th June
The day will be spent travelling to Sibiu, but we will stop en route to see the church of Șurdești, a dramatic structure with a tower over 50 metres tall. The drive will provide an opportunity to take in the wild mountainous landscapes of Transylvania.
We will have lunch at the Sun Garden Resort, then continue on to the historic Am Ring Hotel, perfectly situated for those who wish to explore Sibiu’s old town.
Wednesday 17th June
A day of fortified churches, we will start off strong with the 14th Century fortified church of Malancrav, home to beautiful gothic frescoes. We will then see the nearby Apafi Manor, an elegant building that was requisitioned by the state during the communist period, but recently restored. There will be the opportunity for another hike from Malancrav to Nou Sasesc (3 miles, c. 2 hours) or to continue by minibus and spend time in the Saxon village on arrival.
There will then be a short drive to the Saxon town of Biertan, where will have lunch and visit their imposing fortified church. We will begin to make our way back to Sibiu, stopping to see the Hosman fortified church with its arresting mountainous backdrop. Dinner will be at the Astra Open Village Museum, which will be a wonderful and immersive experience.
Thursday 18th June
We will spend the morning driving the Transalpina road up to the Urdele pass, a scenic journey through the majestic Southern Carpathian Mountains. There will be time for a short walk between Urdele Peak and Papusa Peak (1.25 miles, 1 hour) which is suitable for everyone.
Lunch will be in Ranca, perched on the mountain ridge. After continuing along the mountain road, there will be a stop for the Hurezi Monastery. Built in the Brâncovenesc style, it is known
Further Details
Tuition – The trip will be led by Charlie Winton and Alys Fowler. Alys is a gardener and an award-winning journalist. She trained in horticulture at the Royal Botanic Gardens Kew and the New York Botanical Gardens and it is through her love of plants and ecology that she came to writing. She has written for numerous publications including the National Geographic, Observer, Guardian, Time Out and Gardens Illustrated. Alys has just published a book about bogs, Peatlands. We will be joined by Doru Munteanu, our Romanian guide who has excellent knowledge of the mountain paths.
Hotels – We will spend two nights in Pension Suci, which has a terrace overlooking the hills and garden. One night will be spent in Casa Iurca Hotel, built in the early 19th century with traditional interior decor. There will be wo nights in the beautiful Am Ring Hotel, with elements dating back to the 1800s. We will have one night in Hotel Cascada, followed by one night in Hotel Aro Palace, both chosen primarily for their location, they each have comfortable rooms and a swimming pool.
Ability – Unlike our previous trips, this one has been designed so that the hikes are optional. However, there is still a lot of walking, as well as slopes and uneven cobbles. As is the case for all our courses, there is a lot of standing while we discuss the works we are looking at. The highest altitude we reach on the minibus will be c.2000m.
For those wishing to do the hikes, you must be able to walk well for 3 hours maximum (with a few breaks). You will need good walking boots and a small rucksack to carry water, waterproofs and snacks. I have included in the itinerary the length and estimated time for each walk and it will be uphill, steep in parts.
Dinners – All dinners are included in the fees, some will be set menus while for others there will be a limited choice. Alcohol and coffee will be extra. Due to the remote nature of some of the locations we will often be eating at the hotel.
Flights – We do not book the flights thus allowing you to travel to suit your budget, use airmiles, travel between different airports or on different dates. However, we recommend buying the following flights with Ryanair.
Saturday 13th June London Stansted 07.50 – 12.40 Cluj FR2485
Saturday 20th June Bucharest Otopeni 21.15 – 22.35 London Stansted FR1008
Transport – We will travel in a private minibus with air-conditioning. Please note that due to the nature of the trip there will be a lot of travelling, about 2 hours on average a day. The longest drive between hotels will be 5 hours, however we will stop often to see churches and for lunch.
Cost – The fees are £2690 which includes accommodation and breakfast, all lunches, all dinners (not including alcohol or coffee for dinners), transfers for the recommended flight, transport when connected with teaching, entrance fees, tuition, reading lists and local advice. The single occupancy supplement is £175. Not included are the flights, one supper, travel insurance. The group will not exceed 15 people.
To Register – Please complete the online registration form, having read our terms and conditions and pay a deposit of £600 per person via bank transfer once you receive your confirmation email. Your place is not confirmed until we have received the deposit.
Please call 01379 871800 or email [email protected] for any queries
NB you must buy your own flights
